Teach a newbie some lessons on vintage

[c_bass22]

I would like to know if there's a rule of thumb to how much I should pay for one card example PSA grade 3=what percentage of Hi BV. Things like that I bought my first vintage yesterday and it's graded Poor 1 (MK) which means there is a pen mark somewhere but I can't see it but I could care less the card is from 1933 and I got it for under 20$ and now I feel the Vintage addiction kicking in. I'm looking to buy some vintage Habs card either from the C55 or C56 set or the O-Pee-chee from 1933.
Thanks
Sebastien

 

[gijoe_9]

A good question Ive wondered myself as Beckett doesnt have a prewar grading scale percentage, just high/low....

 

[Fred Bear]

From what I've found since I dove back into vintage earlier this month is that it depends heavily on the set. From there, you can judge a particular card and its place within that set, period, history, etc. I tried to look at previous sales, but it is very hit-or-miss. It's basically like trying to buy cards with print runs /10 or /15. They are out there, but are 2-4 people trying to get this one, or just you...

The PSA population report (theirs is the only one you have to pay to get unless you 'know a guy') will give you a good idea about quantities available at each graded 'level'. Beyond that, you have to factor in player (is he a HOFer? is it his RC?), set (is it big with Registry collectors?), and team (is he from a popular team?). I've also noticed that cards with qualifiers (like MK) are much less desirable (i.e. you can get a PSA 7-8 with a qualifier for close to PSA 4-5 money).

Enough of that stuff, though... What did you buy?!?!?

 

[terry1hockeyfan]

Good advice from Fred Bear. It really does matter what player and set you are dealing with, along with a little luck and timing will get you some nice deals. Now leave my vintage alone! JK!

 

[Ironman Indy]

The Beckett scale for 1933-1941 is:

MT - 300% +
NrMt-Mt - 150-300%
NrMt - 100-150%
Ex-Mt - 100%
Ex - 50-75%
VG - 30-50%
G/F/P - 15-30%

You can take those values and apply them to PSA as marked I guess

Your Poor to me sounds like it is in the 10-15% range but each person can interpret the %s differently

I use it as a rough rule when purchasing my Vintage but other factors certainly play into it

Of course pre 1933 is a bit of a crapshoot

 

[c_bass22]

Thanks for the advice guys, I will start with lower grades I think and if my passion grows I will upgrade just like I did with my PC. Obviously I'm going to collect Habs card mostly. Are those good sets C55 C56 and 1933 OPC they are the only one I know, and since they are so old lower grading is more common just to find a card from those is an accomplishment I feel.
Thanks again

 

[c_bass22]

This is what I got, I know it's not much but it's fun to own something that old and like I said when i'll receive it. I tihnk it will change somehow my collecting habit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_922

 

[terry1hockeyfan]

All good sets, personally I like the C55 and C56 more than the 1933. Of course you will need a Richard from 1951-52 Parkhurst and probably a Geoffrion, Beliveau, Harvey, Dryden, Lafleur, etc but these won't come cheap. So many Habs legends to think about. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your progress.

 

[c_bass22]

All good sets, personally I like the C55 and C56 more than the 1933. Of course you will need a Richard from 1951-52 Parkhurst and probably a Geoffrion, Beliveau, Harvey, Dryden, Lafleur, etc but these won't come cheap. So many Habs legends to think about. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your progress.

I might get a Richard Rc but that's where I draw my line for vintage I don't think I will go for the Dryden and Lafleur RC stuff it is just too modern I like those old guys that we don't know much about like this Nick Wasnie. But like you terry I do prefer the C55 and C56 sets which are truly the birth of hockey cards in my mind.