UD exclusive pricing

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pegcityjets

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Ok i have been told that my YG checklist books at $150, and that Pettersson books at $1200. Now i think my cards is more like $200+. If they used the 4x on Pettersson he would only book at $400. Exactly how does this work, is the 4x only for common cards and dont use the multiplier on the bigger cards.
 
The YG CL exclusive version sells for around $50 regularly so $150 BV seems more than reasonable. Multipliers are just a guideline and do not apply equally across the board and vary greatly within the same subsets even.

Darren
 
Were are they selling for that? I dont go by ebay pricing, there not a price guide. I had a card on there and sold for a $1 it was worth about $150+, i didn't let it go for that and took the negative feedback.
 
pegcityjets said:
Were are they selling for that? I dont go by ebay pricing, there not a price guide. I had a card on there and sold for a $1 it was worth about $150+, i didn't let it go for that and took the negative feedback.
Click to expand...

Wait...so you sold a card via auction and then cancelled the order because it didn't fetch you enough? :dislike:
 
pegcityjets said:
Were are they selling for that? I dont go by ebay pricing, there not a price guide. I had a card on there and sold for a $1 it was worth about $150+, i didn't let it go for that and took the negative feedback.
Click to expand...

Probably not the best thing to admit to.

As for ebay, the reality is the vast majority use it as at least a foundation for sportscard pricing these days. If you wish to say your card is worth more that's your choice but most will disagree with you and few will be interested in a fictional value that you say it is worth.

With a quick browse, last 3 sold were $38/51/45 so it's not a one time thing. Also it should be noted the YG CL's have very little interest as most do not consider it a Rookie Card.
 
There are also many instances where you are going to be very disappointed if you're expecting to get book value on a card, especially one that you've put up for auction.
 
I don't have a beckett subscription, so I'm only making an educated guess here....

If you look at the price guide, you likely won't find that it "books for $150". What you'll find is that it "books" for a RANGE, and that the high end of that range is $150. Probably the low end of that range is around $50.

While I don't think beckett is particularly useful these days - it is one of the things that drive me crazy about the so called "book value" that gets attributed to cards. Seems that many people can't see the column on the left, they only look at the one with the bigger number on the right.

If you're really adamant about the card being "worth" $150 (or even more) - best of luck to you, but I would be very surprised if you'll ever find someone that would actually be willing to part with that much cash for one.

To say that you don't go by eBay pricing is fine - because you're right. eBay isn't a price guide. It's real time sales, that reflect what someone has actually been willing to pay for the card.

If you really think an exclusives parallel of the YG checklist is worth $150 (or $200) - do you also believe that there's a single person on this planet that would pay that much for one?


Also: If you're not willing to sell the card for the value of the starting bid, don't list it that low. You'll get banned from eBay pretty quick for tactics like that. I I have no idea what you thought you'd actually get for this supposed $150 card.... but if you honestly believed you'd get $150 for it, then just list it Buy-It-Now for $150.... or list it on auction where the starting bid is actually something you'll accept.
 
As messed up as eBay is, a lot of the time they show what a card actually sells for. Beckett has been useful in the past, but it puts an unreal expectation on cards now. Take for example my Rookie Parade collection. Bc says I have $5000 in cards. But if I were to sell them, I’d be lucky to get 600$
 
If I’m trading for a card I want, I’m normally happy to trade via either recent sales average via EBay or book value high. I’m flexible if I’m getting back something I want. As someone who sets up at shows, most dealers and a majority of buyers go by recent sales history of eBay or in person sales to figure out pricing.
 
danvincent78 said:
If I’m trading for a card I want, I’m normally happy to trade via either recent sales average via EBay or book value high. I’m flexible if I’m getting back something I want. As someone who sets up at shows, most dealers and a majority of buyers go by recent sales history of eBay or in person sales to figure out pricing.
Click to expand...

And that all makes perfect sense. I know I recently did a pretty large trade, and the other guy wanted to use BVs (high column). That's not normally something I do... but so long as the end result was a trade I liked, I was fine with it. It worked out fine - There is no way in the world that either of us could sell those cards for the value we assigned them though.

If I'm buying a card at a show, I'd expect to pay a premium over what I could get it for online.... there is zero risk to me (i.e. lost or damaged in the mail), and I don't have to pay for s/h costs. That card that cost $10 on eBay... maybe it is worth $15 at a show or a store.

But I think most of us realize, using the OP's example: If I card routinely sells $50 on eBay.... nobody is paying $150 for it. $60 at a table @ a card show? Yeah, I could see that.
 
This is a topic that I have been thinking more and more about, I am really thinking that I need to have a "formula" or "algorithm" that helps assign a "value to a card. For years, I have always said book value should be fine as long as both parties agree to that. So if you are trading $50 in book for $50 in book, that is fair. Now of course that all breaks down when a player is hot or the product is new, etc. I have also used the HI Book x 33.33% = my buy price. That tends to be pretty much what eBay comes out to anyhow, and I am happy with that most of the time.

What has been getting me is people decide what to use only when it benefits them, is it eBay, COMC, Beckett? Honestly they are all flawed, but I am really thinking it is time to get some parameters around it all. Guess I will hold that for another post later.....
 

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